While visiting Thailand in October I headed to Phuket for the Vegetarian Festival. Also called Tesagan Gin Je or 9 Emperor God Festival, this 9-day Taoist festival is like nothing I have attended before. I went for the food, which despite the festival’s name, is vegan, but the highlight was watching the rituals and street processions. I thought I had some idea of what I was getting myself into but when I was weak and on the verge of fainting, I knew I had underestimated the spectacle.
A Bit of Background…
The story goes that a Chinese opera troupe travelled through Phuket during an epidemic. Some of the members got very ill so the others in the group looked towards the 9 Emperor Gods of ancient China to protect them. The Opera troupe performed traditional rituals to honour the Gods and as veganism was believed to be the purest form of diet they vowed to practice veganism to be saved. The local Phuket people seeing this took up the rituals and continue these annually as a form of protection.
Each year for the festival participants refrain from eating meat, dairy, eggs or strong-smelling food like onion and garlic. They forgo alcohol, and sex, and wear white as a sign of their purity. Carnival-like processions take place throughout the streets of Phuket. Fire crackers and music fill the air. And of course, vegan food stalls line the paths to the major Taoist Temples.
The festival begins on the eve of the 9th lunar month with the pole raising ceremony. Gold covered poles are erected on Temple grounds to facilitate the return of the Gods to earth. For the 9 days those taking part are cleansed and have their luck and good fortune returned.
The Mah Song
The Mah Song are an important part of the festival. They are specially chosen men, women, and children who sacrifice their bodies to bring good luck and fortune to the community. Each year they enter a trance, walk over fire, and pierce their skin with everything from pins to pipes to pistols. It is believed that the chosen Mah Song are possessed by the Gods who have returned to this world to bless the community.
At the festival, I witnessed swords, knives, clubs, pistols and so much more in the faces of the Mah Song. It is a sight to behold and not for the faint-hearted. I did become lightheaded one morning after witnessing swords through a man’s cheeks. I’m not normally squeamish but this is another level.
In an interview with the Bangkok Post, Mah Song Thitipong Saisutthikul said that he feels no pain when being pierced as he is not conscious until the objects are removed and his wounds are patched up. Looking at my photos below, it’s hard to believe that there is no pain. Up close though, the trances are clear. Many times, I was standing near a shaking, yelping person who’s eyes were rolling back in their heads. When this starts, assistants dress them in their colourful robes and move them towards the processions. I don’t know how it works but Saisutthikul says it just happens. He says he was paralysed for hours during his first time. He is just one of hundreds of Mah Song on Phuket.
Gallery
Each year over the 9 days there are many processions and events. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see the fire walking ceremonies or the blade ladder. But I was there for the Life and Death procession which was loud, so loud. I also got in early for the Bang Neow shrine procession on my last day in Phuket. This was where I saw the piercings taking place and nearly fainted!
Below are a selection of photos I took of the Mah Song during the festival. Heads up, in case you haven’t guessed, some of the photos are pretty gruesome! There’ll be another post up soon Here’s another post about the food and the tons of stalls lining the streets during the Phuket Vegetarian Festival.
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