I can’t recommend vegan friendly Luang Prabang enough. It’s such a chill, laid back place. I dare you not to fall in love.
Travelling by Road in Laos
Have you ever travelled by minivan in Laos? Not a private minivan but a public one? One that stops to pick up people even though it’s already bursting at the seams? No? You should, I’d recommend it for the adrenaline rush. These journeys I omit on my calls home to mammy. She doesn’t need to know until I’m safe in front of her with all limbs still attached.
Most of our travel in Laos was by minivan or motorbike. Going from Vang Vieng to the UNESCO site of Luang Prabang by minivan will forever live in my head. About a 180km journey along Route 13, much of it is over mountains. We’d booked a seat on a private bus but were brought out to the bus terminal and put on a public one instead. Let’s put it down to a miscommunication. Our bags went up on the roof along with a big cage of chickens, lots of other people’s bags, and some pipes for good measure. The luggage was about half the height of the bus. I’m glad I’m not a engineer because my nerves could not handle knowing our weight distribution going around turns. I kept my fingers crossed for no roundabouts!
We crammed ourselves into the back of the bus along with 9 others and watched in awe and trepidation as more seats were folded down into the aisle and stools were added to any remaining space. Waste not want not, am I right?
The journey was to take about 4 hours, from experience, I always add another hour to my expectations. What I didn’t realise was that only 28% of Lao roads are paved and 60% are deemed to be in bad condition. Historically, the rivers of Laos (including the mighty Mekong) were the main method of transportation for Lao people but with the development of huge dams, these waterways are becoming less and less viable for transportation.
About an hour into the drive, my top vertebrae were about to book a one-way ticket out of my spine. The bus raced along the pothole-riddled roads weaving to avoid missing chunks whilst also avoiding the brake pedal. I couldn’t help but think of Irish travel writer Dervla Murphy cycling through Laos on a battered bicycle. Not much had changed in 25 years.
“This tarred road is surprisingly good; the large broken patches might irritate a motorist but rarely slow a cyclist”.
Dervla Murphy One Foot in Loas
The roads wound upwards over the mountains. As we climbed I was sure he was dropping me off to St. Pete at the pearly gates. The van continued to whiz around holes without a care in the world, never mind the narrowing of the road and the approaching traffic. We hit some roadworks on the top of a mountain and had to stop on a steep slope to allow oncoming traffic to pass. Our driver got out to stretch his legs. We, in the cramped minivan, listened to the sound of the creaking handbrake and admired the views. Laos is so incredibly beautiful that even when I’m flirting with death she catches my eye.
After about 20 minutes we got going again and all vehicles pulled out onto the road at the same time. A zig-zagged traffic jam emerged. Stopped again on a turn, a truck, tired of waiting, overtook us and caused the nearing traffic to stall. No one batted an eyelid. I began to think that I and my provisional licence were the ones who knew nothing of driving.
We had peaked, both the mountain and my imminent danger. The descent on the far side was smoother than the entire previous 100-odd km. The road works were apparently heading south and I was happily heading north.
Vegan Friendly Luang Prabang
We made it to Luang Prabang in one piece albeit starving! Man, it was worth it. I found Luang Prabang to be vegan-friendly though I did have a lot more Western food here than in other Asian cities. I think this was down to the sheer amount of Western-style restaurants in the town. There were so many inviting places that I could have spent another week wandering.
Where to Eat and Drink Luang Prabang
Night Market Veggie Stalls – Buffet Vegetarian / Tib Khao / Lao name but says Vegan
The night market is a great spot for people-watching. Tourists and locals alike eat here and this is reflected in the price. There are 3 places with obvious vegan options together down one end. We ate here twice from all 3 as the food was yum and the atmosphere was buzzing.
Buffet Vegetarian – Plate for 30,000 kip. It’s a small plate but you can pile high. Everything appeared to be vegan. I had rice noodles, pasta noodles, pumpkin, stir fry veg, crispy tofu, cabbage
Tib Khao – Tofu and veg in a red curry paste – made to order, 25,000kip. Delightful and spicy with a sweet undertone. The tofu was a bit too chewy, perhaps twice-fried.
Vegan – Pad Lao, I ate a lot of Pad Lao over the month in Laos. These were lovely and sticky and tangy.
Opera House Café – We stopped here to look at the menu and went in because I had a pesto craving and spotted the vegan pesto wrap. The Mediterranean-style menu has meat and veg options and a small vegan section. It’s a nice, cosy café open out onto the street.
Pad Lao – Similar to Pad Thai but sweeter with tamarind. Had lots of crispy tofu, beans sprouts, and peanuts. Really tasty and one I will try to make myself at home.
Pesto Falafel wrap – Floury, thin flatbread with lots of pesto, falafels were overpowered by the pesto but not in a bad way. Could have thrown in another falafel. Overall tasty with crunchy fresh veg and completely satisfied my craving.
Another restaurant that opens onto the street for good people-watching is Yuni Yupoun restaurant. It specialises in Greek, Lebanese, and Peruvian food from an owner who is well travelled. We ordered the mezze platter to share and then a burger because two women beside us were really enjoying theirs. I couldn’t help but be intrigued by the noises coming from the table beside us and when we were caught staring the women said we had to try the burger. Both us and the table behind followed orders and the burger orgy began.
Vegan Mezze Plater – ordered vegan but vegetarian came out with tzatziki. The falafels were big and moist and probably the best I’ve ever had tbh. Aubergine caviar was my favourite dip, creamy with just a slight bitterness. Top-notch hummus.
Chickpea burger – Falafel patty in a white bun with lettuce, tomato, pickle, and hummus on the side. We shoved everything into the bun with chilli sauce and loudly and probably grossly, proclaimed its glory like our neighbours had done earlier. WHAT A BURGER!
Two Little Birds Café – Vegan/Vegetarian, a family-owned restaurant selling local foods and smoothie bowls. I love the lack of single-use plastic and the eco-friendly vibe here. The menu is predominantly vegan and the ingredients are local where possible. I’ve read that it can get pretty busy here, we came in for a late lunch and it was quiet.
Green smoothies bowl – Creamy avocado, spinach, apple, mango, and soy milk base topped with apple slices, mango cubes, shredded coconut and chia seeds. All are very fresh and filling. Cost about €2.40
Laap cups – Mushroom, tofu, herbs, chilli, and lime in lettuce cups. I loved these. Wonderful and fresh.
The French Colonial influence is still in Luang Prabang, this is evident with all the wonderful coffee shops. I need a regular caffeine fix, so I’ve included 2 of the cafés I loved the most.
Saffron coffee – delicious espresso. They roast and grind beans in the store, which smells fantastic. Profits from coffee are used to help Lao people. Opium was a main cash crop for many farmers before the government made it illegal. The mountainous land is well suited to grow coffee instead and Saffron buys beans from 780 farming families while investing back into the community.
Dada café is located in a beautiful building on Khem Khong Street and has lovely rich speciality roast coffee. Enjoy the view over the Mekong River while sipping on your coffee.
I had pineapple tepache for the first time in Café Del Mundo which I’d highly recommend for thirsty quenching in 30 degree heat. My little taste buds loved it so it’s getting a sneaky mention.
I loved my trip to Laos and Luang Prabang, have you been there? Tell me about it in the comments! Did you find Luang Prabang vegan friendly?
What I was Reading in Laos
One Foot in Laos – Dervla Murphy
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