Looking to see some breathtaking karst rock formations towering over lush green rice paddies? Nah, you’re right, sounds sh*t, why would anyone want to slouch around sipping coffees, munching on banh mì in the stunning Vietnamese countryside? Better off skipping Tam Cốc and staying at home marathon-watching Netflix… But, if you do enjoy that kind of thing here’s your vegan guide to Tam Cốc, Vietnam.
If you find yourself in Northern Vietnam you’ll most likely want to make your way to Ninh Binh province to the World Heritage UNESCO site. Situated just a 2-hour drive from Hanoi, the city of Ninh Binh serves as your gateway to this mesmerising locale. A short taxi ride from Ninh Binh takes you to Tam Cốc, a small town situated amongst the iconic karst pillars. Despite its touristy vibe, Tam Cốc surprises with guest houses tucked away on serene streets and an array of restaurants, providing an escape from the tourist crowds.
After a month in Da Nang City, we hit Tam Cốc for 2 weeks, taking time to catch up on work, rest, and see the sights. I’d recommend taking advantage of the chilled atmosphere and making your way through slowly, there’s plenty of time for rushing around later in life. Of course, not everyone has the luxury of staying a couple of weeks but give yourself a few days at least. Enjoy the views, the food, the atmosphere, and the ridiculously cheap fresh (draft) beer.
It’s easy to get to Ninh Binh as the Hanoi – Da Nang train runs through it as well as regular buses. We took a 14-hour sleeper from Da Nang and grabbed a taxi at the station for the 15-minute trip to Tam Cốc. The train is a piece of (vegan) cake to book through the Vietnam Railways website.
Tam Cốc or Tràng An?
Tam Cốc and Tràng An both have their pros and cons depending on what you are after. If you want to stay in a more rural spot, Tràng An is quiet and sparsely populated but it does mean the need for transport. We chose Tam Cốc so we could be within walking distance of restaurants, unlike in Tràng An. You know me; I like to eat my way through a town so I would rather rely on something other than our accommodation for all meals.
Our Homestay, Tam Coc Paradise, a 10-minute stroll from the main strip, was perfect – quiet with a first-floor terrace boasting mountain views for our evenings when we weren’t exploring the town. Our booking included breakfast and while the menu wasn’t vegan the owner was happy to substitute the eggs for fruit.
Things to see and do
River tour
Tam Cốc’s pièce de résistance is the river tour with two options: one in Tam Cốc and the other in Tràng An. We went for the latter; the former has a bit of a bad rep for insistence on tips and pushiness (though I can’t confirm this as I didn’t go on it). We rented a scooter from our Homestay for the 15-minute ride to Tràng An. It’s easily doable by bicycle too, we cycled from Tam Cốc to Hoa Lu, the ancient city, near Tràng An without any bother. The boat tour costs about €10 per person with 4 to a boat. You can rent the boat to yourself if you want but we chose to pair up with a couple from America who were kind enough to swap the front with us halfway through.
There are 3 routes to choose between, we chose route 3 which has the longest cave (1km) included. The route details are displayed on the dock so you can pick before hopping on a boat. While it seemed like it was going to be crowded, it was quite peaceful once we were moving. Our driver kept a good distance from other boats where possible and people were generally quiet (bar the one boat playing Westlife (!) through a portable speaker).
The tour took 3 hours and was my highlight of Ninh Binh. Describing the beauty of the area, especially during golden hour, is a tough task – you have to see it to believe it.
Mua Cave
With bikes in tow, we explored more sites. Mua Cave is a must for the views, although the “cave” is more of a short tunnel in a somewhat theme park-like area. Ignore the gaudiness, head up the steps towards the dragon, and relish the steep but phenomenal views. You can climb across the dragon on top of the mountain but I gave that a miss, I’m way better craic alive. Broken dragon scales and oncoming selfie seekers were enough for my common sense to tell me to get down and head over to the pagoda on the neighbouring peak.
Less energetic activities
Hoa Lu, the ancient capital (10th century), is, as I mentioned above, close to Trang An and lovely to stroll around the temples, pagodas, and tombs. You don’t need much time here, an hour or so before your river tour.
Bich Dong temple is only a short cycle outside Tam Cốc and consists of a grotto and 3 pagodas, Ha, Trung, and Thuong. It’s free entry and very photogenic.
A surprise hit for me was Bird Valley. We hadn’t intended to go but it was recommended at our Homestay. The grounds are beautiful with the flowers in full bloom during our visit in December. Included in the ticket price (100,000 VND ~ €4) is a boat ride to see a huge muster of storks (you learned something new, didn’t you?) return to roost shortly before sunset.
The serious stuff… eating
What would a vegan guide to Tam Cốc be without food recommendations? Most of the restaurants in Tam Cốc offer versions of the same menu. Some have better vegan options, some have better food.
A vegan guide to Tam Cốc
Banh Mì – You know by now that I love banh mì, but Minh Kha restaurant took it to another level with a peanut butter tofu roll. Absolute MAGICIANS!
Banana Blossom Salad – Chef Hien whipped up a beautiful banana blossom salad for us and was happy to omit any fish sauce from the dressing.
Tofu with Lemongrass – Order this with a veg side. Chef Hien has great version where the lemongrass doesn’t feel too sawdusty, if you know what I mean.
Tofu in Tomato Sauce – I was reluctant to try this; I thought it would be a bland, watery sauce. I was wrong. It’s a delicious dish when done well, as it is in Thuy Linh Restaurant.
Fried Potato/Banana Cakes are on sale from stalls in the center of Tam Coc. These are exceptional! Try with chilli sauce, I highly recommend it! I checked with a stall owner, and they’re vegan, so, my friends, munch away.
Vegetarian Curry (Ca Rí) was on offer in a few places, but for me, Pig Family had the best. A creamy coconut curry with plenty of vegetables, tofu, and mushrooms. A choice of rice or chips (French Fries) on the side. Bob and I shared one of each for a good old 3 in 1 (IYKYK)!
Vegetable Spring/Summer Rolls are served in every restaurant we visited. They come with a fish sauce dip, but we used the chili sauce that’s on almost every table in every restaurant.
Veggie Burgers are in a few places; some are tofu slabs, and others, like in Buddha Belly Vegetarian Restaurant, are veggie patties. Buddha Belly’s burger was so good I had it twice!
A to B
The area around Tam Cốc is pretty flat and most places can be reached by bicycle. Most Homestays offer bicycles for free or a scooter to rent for further afield. We were given a handy map on arrival too. In Tam Cốc, you’ll be within walking distance of all the restaurants mentioned above. You’ll need a bike/bicycle if you are staying in Trang An and it’s worth noting that sunset is around half 6 so you’ll want a decent light.
Money, money, money
I took out a chunk of change before getting the train from Da Nang to Ninh Binh because the internet told me to. There was no need. There are a couple of ATMs in Tam Cốc along the main strip. The atm charges are higher than the likes of HSBC and Agri Bank so you may still want to bring cash to save money.
Get yourself to Ninh Binh, savour the slow-paced charm of Tam Cốc, and let the stunning landscapes and rich culture redefine your travel expectations. Cheers to good views, good food, good vibes, and, of course, cheap draft beer.
If I missed anything in this vegan guide to Tam Cốc, be sure to let me know in the comments!
Click here for more posts from Vietnam.
One thought on “Vegan Guide to Tam Cốc”